from Trabzon we follow the coast of the Black Sea
at Batumi we cross the border
what is striking is that in Georgia people do sit on the beach
we take a city tour
and cycle to Zugdidi, where we leave some of our luggage behind
many hives and honey sales
bamboo ladders and sweepers; the real craft
cows and pigs in the streets and dilapidated buildings
Svanetia
has its own language and writing
has remained reasonably free of occupiers in the past
money and valuables were taken care of
what was brought here by oppressed populations
the museum in Mestia and the local film Dede
give a glimpse into the rich history
we stay 2 weeks
enjoying
our host Gio fears cultural heritage is disappearing due to tourism
in Mestia, with its watchtowers, this is not a problem yet
in Ushguli it is
we celebrate Wen's birthday with cake
the Zagari pass is breathtakingly beautiful
with its 5000-metre peaks of the Caucasus
Tskaltubo
Soviet Union's former thermal resort
on doctor's advice, a two-week course of treatment
there was a direct train connection from Moscow
8 bathhouses and 23 sanatoriums
dark and sinister
fascinating
impoverished and abandoned
apart from a few refugees from Abkhazia
Stalin's summer house and private bath
is sensitive here
because Stalin wanted to eliminate the Georgian identity
from north to south Georgia
three passes above 2000 metres
Zagari, Zekari and Vardzia pass
steep and unpaved
jaded but proud
breathtaking views
pure beauty at the top
sleeping among horses, sheep, cows and dogs in a cutting wind
bouncing down the descent to Vardzia
a monastery carved into the rocks
we climb out of the gorge
and enter a totally different landscape
with barren expansive rolling mountains
Georgia has captured our hearts
we still put Svaneti salt on our egg every day
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